PU LEATHER LAB / GUIDE 01

What is PU leather?

A textile and a polymer, working together. Start with the material beneath the shine.

A LOOK INSIDE / NOT TO SCALE01 Surface finish — gloss or texture02 Polyurethane (PU) layerThe flexible coating03 Textile backing — supportLayer thickness and construction vary by product.
A simplified diagram of coated PU fabric. Some products also contain adhesive, foam or additional finish layers. This is not a verified cross-section of a specific IRIS fabric.

PU means polyurethane

PU leather generally refers to a leather-like textile coated or laminated with polyurethane. It is not animal hide. Its appearance can range from a soft grain to a highly reflective patent finish. The backing gives support; the coating creates the surface you see and touch.

Patent describes a glossy finish, not a single guaranteed composition. Two glossy fabrics may look alike and behave differently when stretched, folded, cleaned or stored. Check the individual material description.

Why we love it at 1/6 scale

Gloss makes a small silhouette readable. A narrow highlight can describe the curve of a corset, a sleeve or a full-length catsuit. IRIS selects Japanese PU leather with appearance, durability and reduced colour transfer in mind. These are design priorities, not a promise that a garment can never mark a body or deteriorate.

Fit matters as much as finish. A costume that is too tight puts extra stress on seams and coating. Choose a stated compatible body rather than relying only on the phrase 1/6 scale.

PU, PVC and genuine leather are different

PU uses polyurethane; PVC-coated material uses polyvinyl chloride. Genuine leather is animal hide. A cleaner sold for one is not automatically suitable for another. Microfiber artificial leather may use an impregnated nonwoven structure rather than the simple coated fabric illustrated here.

Avoid assuming that a leather conditioner is appropriate for PU. Follow the costume maker’s instructions and test any approved product on a hidden area first.

Watch the related film

What is PU leather?

Chapter 2 · English

An introduction from the IRIS PU Leather Complete Guide.

Watch on YouTube ↗
Sources & readingKuraray — artificial and synthetic leather construction

Illustrations: IRIS12DDA editorial diagrams. General care guidance is not a laboratory test of an individual costume or body. Some reference pages are in Japanese.