PU LEATHER LAB / GUIDE 02

The layers behind the gloss

Understand what supports the costume, and why pulling a surface can damage more than the surface.

A LOOK INSIDE / NOT TO SCALE01 Surface finish — gloss or texture02 Polyurethane (PU) layerThe flexible coating03 Textile backing — supportLayer thickness and construction vary by product.
A simplified diagram of coated PU fabric. Some products also contain adhesive, foam or additional finish layers. This is not a verified cross-section of a specific IRIS fabric.

Read the cross-section

The illustration shows a simplified coated fabric, not a laboratory section of an IRIS product. A surface finish controls gloss or texture, the PU coating provides a flexible leather-like face, and a woven or knitted backing supports it. Some fabrics add adhesive or foam layers; others use a different construction.

What each layer tells you

  1. Surface finishTreat gloss gently. Abrasion can change how it reflects light, even before an obvious scratch appears. Avoid rubbing one shiny surface against another during storage.
  2. PU coatingRepeated stretching, folding and ageing can weaken the film. Do not use the coating itself as a handle when dressing a tight sleeve or leg.
  3. Textile backingThe backing supports the garment, but that does not make the outer film indestructible. Guide fabric gradually along the body instead of pulling only at the cuff.

A repair is not a material reset

A detached coating and a loose stitch are different problems. Restitching may help a seam; it cannot reverse a chemically degraded coating. Stop wearing a piece that sheds flakes or becomes sticky, and keep it apart from other costumes until you can assess it.

Do not peel a lifted edge to investigate it. Photograph the area and ask the maker for advice before adding glue, paint or a repair compound. A repair may alter both flexibility and finish.

Sources & readingKuraray — differences in synthetic leather constructionITOKIN — peeling and deterioration of synthetic leather

Illustrations: IRIS12DDA editorial diagrams. General care guidance is not a laboratory test of an individual costume or body. Some reference pages are in Japanese.